Difference between revisions of "DFF4.1 Building Instructions"
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INSERT IMAGE HERE | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
− | = Controller = | + | = Controller = |
+ | |||
+ | Close solder-jumper for I2C pullup resistors: | ||
+ | |||
+ | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
+ | |||
+ | Put in micromatch sockets and solder them: | ||
+ | |||
+ | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
+ | |||
+ | Put in MicroBCU and solder the pins. Start with just one pin and then check the angle of MicroBCU PCB. It should be parallel to controller PCB. You may reheat the first pin to align the angle of MicroBCU PCB. | ||
+ | Then solder the remaining pins. | ||
+ | |||
+ | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
+ | |||
+ | Put in MiniUSB socket and solder the pins. As with MicroBCU, solder just on pin, check angle and then solder remaining pins. Ensure that the two outer shielding pins have good contact and enough solder. | ||
+ | |||
+ | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
+ | |||
+ | Pin in tactile switch and solder the pins. Ensure that the switch is comletely inserted and aligned flat on the PCB before soldering all pins. | ||
+ | |||
+ | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
+ | |||
+ | Put in red LED. '''Check the polarity twice! Unsoldering the LED might kill the trough-hole-contact and you PCB is trash!''' | ||
+ | |||
+ | INSERT IMAGE HERE --> LED polarity | ||
+ | |||
+ | Solder the LED. Ensure that there is a distance of xx mm +-1mm between buttom of LED case and PCB. | ||
+ | |||
+ | INSERT IMAGE HERE --> show LED distance to PCB | ||
= Frontend = | = Frontend = |
Revision as of 09:27, 6 April 2018
Preparation
Check that all parts are there:
Pcs. | Part |
---|---|
2 | M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 15mm |
2 | M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 18mm |
4 | M3 screw, nylon |
8 | relay |
8 | screw terminals, cage |
8 | 3mm LED, green |
8 | 3mm LED spacer, 5mm height |
1 | 3mm LED, red |
8 | tactile push button, xx mm |
1 | tactile push button, xx mm |
1 | DIN Rail enclosure, consisting of:
|
1 | MiniUSB socket, vertical |
2 | micromatch socket, 2x3 pin |
1 | micromatch socket, 2x8 pin |
1 | micromatch socket, 2x4 pin |
2 | micromatch plug, 2x3 pin |
1 | micromatch plug, 2x8 pin |
1 | micromatch plug, 2x4 pin |
1 | pcs of flat cable |
1 | PCB enclosure cover, printed and drilled |
1 | M0dularis+ controller PCB |
1 | Frontend PCB, 8 Buttons, 8 LEDs |
1 | Application PCB, 8x BiRelay |
1 | MicroBCU with pinheaders |
Take the flat cable and cut the following lengths and ensure, each cut part has it's own "red wire":
- xx cm, 6 wires
- xx cm, 8 wires
The result shoud look like this:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Carefully put the micromatch plugs (2x3 for 6-wire and 2x4 + 2x8 for the 8-wire) onto the cut flat cable as shown here:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Carefully use a pliers to crimp the plug. Be really careful and take you time. Otherwise you risk damage of micromatch plug!
INSERT IMAGE HERE (pliers + micromatch)
The result should look like this:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Controller
Close solder-jumper for I2C pullup resistors:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in micromatch sockets and solder them:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in MicroBCU and solder the pins. Start with just one pin and then check the angle of MicroBCU PCB. It should be parallel to controller PCB. You may reheat the first pin to align the angle of MicroBCU PCB. Then solder the remaining pins.
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in MiniUSB socket and solder the pins. As with MicroBCU, solder just on pin, check angle and then solder remaining pins. Ensure that the two outer shielding pins have good contact and enough solder.
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Pin in tactile switch and solder the pins. Ensure that the switch is comletely inserted and aligned flat on the PCB before soldering all pins.
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in red LED. Check the polarity twice! Unsoldering the LED might kill the trough-hole-contact and you PCB is trash!
INSERT IMAGE HERE --> LED polarity
Solder the LED. Ensure that there is a distance of xx mm +-1mm between buttom of LED case and PCB.
INSERT IMAGE HERE --> show LED distance to PCB