Difference between revisions of "DFF4.1 Building Instructions"

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Line 132: Line 132:
 
D10/A2 jumper can be left open as this is unsued for this application.
 
D10/A2 jumper can be left open as this is unsued for this application.
  
I2C EEPROM uses address-setting:
+
VCC TOP:
 +
 +
5V
 +
 
 +
VCC BOT:
 +
 
 +
5V
 +
 
 +
D12/A0:
 +
 
 +
A0
 +
 
 +
I2C EEPROM:
  
 
  A0: 0
 
  A0: 0

Revision as of 19:00, 23 April 2018


Preparation

Check that all parts are there:

Pcs. Part
2 M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 15mm, with M3 screw on one end and inner thread on other end.
2 M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 18mm, with inner threads on both ends
4 M3 screw, nylon
8 relay
8 screw terminals, cage
8 3mm LED, green
8 3mm LED spacer, 5mm height
1 3mm LED, red
8 tactile push button, xx mm, "Frontend Buttons"
1 tactile push button, xx mm, "Programming Button"
1 DIN Rail enclosure, consisting of:
  • black bottom
  • white case
  • white front panel
  • 5 pcs terminal guards for screw terminals
  • 1 pcs KNX cover
  • 1 pcs terminal guard for heat-flow
  • 1 pcs terminal guard, closed
1 MiniUSB socket, vertical
2 micromatch socket, 2x3 pin
1 micromatch socket, 2x8 pin
1 micromatch socket, 2x4 pin
2 micromatch plug, 2x3 pin
1 micromatch plug, 2x8 pin
1 micromatch plug, 2x4 pin
1 pcs of flat cable
1 PCB enclosure cover, printed and drilled
1 M0dularis+ controller PCB
1 Frontend PCB, 8 Buttons, 8 LEDs
1 Application PCB, 8x BiRelay
1 MicroBCU with pinheaders
2 pins for KNX connection

Take the 2x4 and 2x8 and both 2x3 micromatch connector (which are not shown, but need to be modified as well) and cut a bit of the orientation pin as shown:

600px

This is required, as the PCB is unfortunately missing the matching hole for this orientation pin.

Take the 10cm ribboncable and cut the following lengths:

  • 5.5cm
  • 4.5cm

then

  • take the 5.5cm part and reduce the wirecount to 6 wires, incl. one red wire
  • take the 4.5cm part and reduce the wirecount to 8 wires, incl. one red wire

The result shoud look like this:

600px

Carefully put the micromatch connector (2x3 for 6-wire and 2x4 + 2x8 for the 8-wire) onto the ribbon cable and crimp the connector with help of a pliers.

600px

Be really careful and take your time. Ensure that you crimp both micromatch parts as parallel as possible. And don't put too much pressure on the plastic. Otherwise you risk damage of micromatch plug! Ensure that you put the red-wire to the side of the orientation-pin of micromatch connector and that you put one of the 2x3 connectors with face down as shown.

600px

When soldering the sockets, LEDs or switches, ...: Start with soldering just one pin. Then check the alignment. If realignment is needed, re-heat the the pin and realign. If alignment is okay, solder the remaining pins. Fixing a wrong alignment afterwards is tricky and you might ruin the PCB. So do it first time right and check alignment twice.

When soldering LEDs check the polarity twice. Unsoldering "through-hole" pins can ruin the through-hole-contact and thus the whole PCB. So be careful.

It's recommended that you stick to the here described order of adding parts to the PCB. That will ease the whole process for you

Controller

Close solder jumpers as shown here. Some of them might have been already closed for first production test.If so, ensure the jumpers are closed as shown. D10/A2 jumper can be left open as this is unsued for this application.

VCC TOP:

5V

VCC BOT:

5V

D12/A0:

A0

I2C EEPROM:

A0: 0
A1: 0 
A2: 0

600px

Put in micromatch sockets and solder them. Check the right orientation according to the picture here:

600px

Put in MiniUSB socket and solder the pins. Ensure that the two outer shielding pins have good contact and enough solder.

Put in the programming button and the LED as shown and solder them as well. Tip: It's easier to adjust the height of the LED when just soldering one pin an adjust heigth while re-heating the pin. Then check alignment and solder second pin.

Check the polarity twice! Unsoldering the LED might kill the trough-hole-contact and your PCB is trash!

600px

Put in the KNX pins and solder them.

600px

Frontend

Put in the 2x3 micromatch socket and solder all the pins.

Put in the LEDs with the LED spacers. Check polarity twice before soldering!

Put in the frontend buttons and solder them as well.

Ensure that solder-jumpers for I2C adress is correctly set to:

A0: 0
A1: 0
A2: 0

INSERT IMAGE HERE

Application

Ensure that solder-jumpers for I2C adress is correctly set to:

A0: 1
A1: 0 
A2: 0

Put in the 2x4 micromatch socket and solder the pins.

INSERT IMAGE HERE

Put in the screw terminals and solder them. Try to align the terminals to the outer PCB line.

INSERT IMAGE HERE

Put in the relays als solder them. If possible, keep at least a minimum space between the relays and also to next terminals.

INSERT IMAGE HERE


Mechanical