Difference between revisions of "DFF4.1 Building Instructions"
Konnekting (talk | contribs) |
Konnekting (talk | contribs) |
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| Line 10: | Line 10: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|2 | |2 | ||
| − | |M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 15mm | + | |M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 15mm, with M3 screw on one end and inner thread on other end. |
|- | |- | ||
|2 | |2 | ||
| − | |M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 18mm | + | |M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 18mm, with inner threads on both ends |
|- | |- | ||
|4 | |4 | ||
| Line 34: | Line 34: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|8 | |8 | ||
| − | |tactile push button, xx mm | + | |tactile push button, xx mm, "Frontend Buttons" |
|- | |- | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
| − | |tactile push button, xx mm | + | |tactile push button, xx mm, "Programming Button" |
|- | |- | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
| Line 109: | Line 109: | ||
INSERT IMAGE HERE | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''When soldering the sockets, LEDs or switches, ...: Start with soldering just one pin. Then check the alignment. If realignment is needed, re-heat the the pin and realign. If alignment is okay, solder the remaining pins. | ||
| + | Fixing a wrong alignment afterwards is tricky and you might ruin the PCB. So do it first time right and check alignment twice.''' | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''When soldering LEDs check the polarity twice. Unsoldering "through-hole" pins can ruin the through-hole-contact and thus the whole PCB. So be careful.''' | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''It's recommended that you stick to the here described order of adding parts to the PCB. That will ease the whole process for you''' | ||
= Controller = | = Controller = | ||
| Line 120: | Line 127: | ||
INSERT IMAGE HERE | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
| − | Put in MicroBCU and solder the | + | Put in MicroBCU and solder the pins. |
| − | |||
INSERT IMAGE HERE | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
| − | Put in MiniUSB socket and solder the | + | Put in MiniUSB socket and solder the pins. Ensure that the two outer shielding pins have good contact and enough solder. |
INSERT IMAGE HERE | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
| − | Pin in | + | Pin in programming button and solder the pins. |
INSERT IMAGE HERE | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
| Line 137: | Line 143: | ||
INSERT IMAGE HERE --> LED polarity | INSERT IMAGE HERE --> LED polarity | ||
| − | Solder the LED. Ensure that there is a distance of xx mm +-1mm between buttom of LED case and PCB. | + | Solder the LED. Ensure that there is a distance of xx mm +-1mm between buttom of LED case and PCB. Tip: It's easier to adjust the height of the LED when just soldering one pin an adjust heigth while re-heating the pin. Then check alignment and solder second pin. |
INSERT IMAGE HERE --> show LED distance to PCB | INSERT IMAGE HERE --> show LED distance to PCB | ||
| Line 143: | Line 149: | ||
= Frontend = | = Frontend = | ||
| − | Put in the 2x3 micromatch socket and solder all the pins | + | Put in the 2x3 micromatch socket and solder all the pins. |
Put in the LEDs with the LED spacers. '''Check polarity twice before soldering!''' | Put in the LEDs with the LED spacers. '''Check polarity twice before soldering!''' | ||
| − | Put in the | + | Put in the frontend buttons and solder them as well. |
Ensure that solder-jumpers for I2C adress is correctly set to: | Ensure that solder-jumpers for I2C adress is correctly set to: | ||
| Line 158: | Line 164: | ||
= Application = | = Application = | ||
| + | |||
| + | Ensure that solder-jumpers for I2C adress is correctly set to: | ||
| + | |||
| + | A0: 1 | ||
| + | A1: 0 | ||
| + | A2: 0 | ||
| + | |||
| + | Put in the 2x4 micromatch socket and solder the pins. | ||
| + | |||
| + | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
| + | |||
| + | Put in the screw terminals and solder them. Try to align the terminals to the outer PCB line. | ||
| + | |||
| + | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
| + | |||
| + | Put in the relays als solder them. If possible, keep at least a minimum space between the relays and also to next terminals. | ||
| + | |||
| + | INSERT IMAGE HERE | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
= Mechanical = | = Mechanical = | ||
Revision as of 09:47, 6 April 2018
Preparation
Check that all parts are there:
| Pcs. | Part |
|---|---|
| 2 | M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 15mm, with M3 screw on one end and inner thread on other end. |
| 2 | M3 hex-spacer, nylon, 18mm, with inner threads on both ends |
| 4 | M3 screw, nylon |
| 8 | relay |
| 8 | screw terminals, cage |
| 8 | 3mm LED, green |
| 8 | 3mm LED spacer, 5mm height |
| 1 | 3mm LED, red |
| 8 | tactile push button, xx mm, "Frontend Buttons" |
| 1 | tactile push button, xx mm, "Programming Button" |
| 1 | DIN Rail enclosure, consisting of:
|
| 1 | MiniUSB socket, vertical |
| 2 | micromatch socket, 2x3 pin |
| 1 | micromatch socket, 2x8 pin |
| 1 | micromatch socket, 2x4 pin |
| 2 | micromatch plug, 2x3 pin |
| 1 | micromatch plug, 2x8 pin |
| 1 | micromatch plug, 2x4 pin |
| 1 | pcs of flat cable |
| 1 | PCB enclosure cover, printed and drilled |
| 1 | M0dularis+ controller PCB |
| 1 | Frontend PCB, 8 Buttons, 8 LEDs |
| 1 | Application PCB, 8x BiRelay |
| 1 | MicroBCU with pinheaders |
Take the flat cable and cut the following lengths and ensure, each cut part has it's own "red wire":
- xx cm, 6 wires
- xx cm, 8 wires
The result shoud look like this:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Carefully put the micromatch plugs (2x3 for 6-wire and 2x4 + 2x8 for the 8-wire) onto the cut flat cable as shown here:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Carefully use a pliers to crimp the plug. Be really careful and take you time. Otherwise you risk damage of micromatch plug!
INSERT IMAGE HERE (pliers + micromatch)
The result should look like this:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
When soldering the sockets, LEDs or switches, ...: Start with soldering just one pin. Then check the alignment. If realignment is needed, re-heat the the pin and realign. If alignment is okay, solder the remaining pins. Fixing a wrong alignment afterwards is tricky and you might ruin the PCB. So do it first time right and check alignment twice.
When soldering LEDs check the polarity twice. Unsoldering "through-hole" pins can ruin the through-hole-contact and thus the whole PCB. So be careful.
It's recommended that you stick to the here described order of adding parts to the PCB. That will ease the whole process for you
Controller
Close solder-jumper for I2C pullup resistors:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in micromatch sockets and solder them:
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in MicroBCU and solder the pins.
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in MiniUSB socket and solder the pins. Ensure that the two outer shielding pins have good contact and enough solder.
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Pin in programming button and solder the pins.
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in red LED. Check the polarity twice! Unsoldering the LED might kill the trough-hole-contact and you PCB is trash!
INSERT IMAGE HERE --> LED polarity
Solder the LED. Ensure that there is a distance of xx mm +-1mm between buttom of LED case and PCB. Tip: It's easier to adjust the height of the LED when just soldering one pin an adjust heigth while re-heating the pin. Then check alignment and solder second pin.
INSERT IMAGE HERE --> show LED distance to PCB
Frontend
Put in the 2x3 micromatch socket and solder all the pins.
Put in the LEDs with the LED spacers. Check polarity twice before soldering!
Put in the frontend buttons and solder them as well.
Ensure that solder-jumpers for I2C adress is correctly set to:
A0: 0 A1: 0 A2: 0
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Application
Ensure that solder-jumpers for I2C adress is correctly set to:
A0: 1 A1: 0 A2: 0
Put in the 2x4 micromatch socket and solder the pins.
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in the screw terminals and solder them. Try to align the terminals to the outer PCB line.
INSERT IMAGE HERE
Put in the relays als solder them. If possible, keep at least a minimum space between the relays and also to next terminals.
INSERT IMAGE HERE